Heading South

19th September 2023

Distance: 537 Km

Fuel: 55 Litres

Kings Canyon to Marla.

Our group broke up this morning, Katie and Geoff heading north on the Mereenie Loop to Alice Springs to visit a friend, The rest of us to our various homes, at varying speeds and in various directions.

I shall miss their company, Katie and Geoff’s new trailer was brilliant but also has plenty of scope for modification.

Andrew’s new tent seemed spacious and he has a great set up especially designed for free camping.

Dale had a swag on a stretcher another really good idea especially for free camping (I was sure I took a picture but I am blowed if I can find it), you can just see his car and swag in the background of the above photo. They are all so well set up.

We have decided to put in long driving stints to try to be home by the weekend, hence today’s long distance drive to Marla.

Marla Roadhouse is OK if a bit of a higgledy piggledy layout, we thought Andrew might be there but he had gone further on.

We intend to try to make it to Woomera tomorrow, by-passing Coober Pedy.

Kings Canyon

18th September 2023

Distance: 21 Km

Fuel: 38 Litres

Kings Creek Walk

Up a little after 6am before sunrise. Was woken by the young ones setting off on their trip to do the Kings Canyon Rim Walk.

My task for the day was less ambitious, I wanted to walk the Kings Creek Walk of about 2 km (there and back) on the canyon floor.

After having breakfast and getting yesterday’s washing on the line I drove to the car park where both walks commence. It was obvious that the Rim Walk was beyond me no matter how enthusiastic I was, the initial climb was a killer and far too steep for me! BTW the walk is one way only, you cannot turn back.

When I arrived I found myself behind a large school group but I needn’t have worried, they took off up the Rim Walk and apart from following them to the start of their walk I never saw them again. The Kings Creek Walk was lovely, the flat terrain though rock strewn it was relatively easy and I enjoyed every moment of it. There were only a few people on this walk and they either quickly passed me or were travelling in the opposite direction. It was a great morning’s walk.

When I finished the walk and returned to the car I found Andrew, he had left Geoff and Katie behind and was ready to go back to the campground.

By the time we got back to the campground it was still early morning so I called in at the servo to fill up with fuel, It seemed to take ages with a caravan blocking all the bowsers. Eventually I filled up and by the time I returned to the campsite so too had Katie and Geoff.

It was another hot day of over 35° so by 2pm we were already for the pub, the air con, a few drinks and many rounds of Exploding Kittens. The pub had happy hour from 3pm to 5pm which made things a bit cheaper and we followed this with a meal but neither Uluru nor Kings Canyon Resort are cheap places to eat out.

That evening we made some preparations for leaving in the morning, Kate and Geoff are going to Alice Springs via the Mereenie Loop while the rest of us are returning south the way we came. The bush fires at Tennant Creek and Barkly have meant a big change of plan for us because we originally intended returning home via Queensland.

One final moment – we wandered to the edge of the campground from where we could see the coloured lights of another light installation done by the same artist who created the Field of Lights, pretty enough but not exciting.

Yulara to Kings Canyon

17th September 2023

Distance: 310 Km

Not a very complex drive today, basically follow the Lassiter Highway until the Kings Canyon turn off then follow that road to the resort.

Checked into the resort but took a wrong turn down a narrow, rocky lane and had to reverse. There was not much room to manoeuvre but after a few scrapes managed to get out.

Finally found the way to a site, very spacious sites it had to be said, with all of us together. once set up the boys went to the swimming pool before we went to the pub and had a few drinks and many games of Exploding Kittens.

Just before sunset we wandered over to the lookout to observe sunset at the canyon, another over rated sunset, then returned to the pub.

However, to be fair, it was a stunning view, sunset or not.

Just to give some idea of the climate this is the thermometer in the camper’s cabin.

As you can see the cabin temperature got as high as nearly 43°C (it was in the high 30s outside) and the humidity ranged from 10% to 25% – I told you it was dry!

Kata Tjuta Revisited

16th September 2023

Distance: 146 Km

Fuel: 51 Litres

Valley of the Winds (second attempt)

Up early as usual, showered as usual because today I was going to re-attempt the Valley of the Winds walk, or rather make it to the Karu Lookout. A couple of days ago I turned back before achieving this because I was too tired from the Walpa Gorge walk (or that was my theory).

Both of these walks are over very rough, rocky terrain so pretty tiring. Anyway to cut a long story short – I made it to the Karu Lookout, I even ventured a few dozen metres further on just to take a few photos but to be honest the track just got rougher and was impassable for me. I was happy to get as far as I did, it was an enjoyable walk.

Afterwards drove to Uluru for one last look as we are leaving tomorrow as it is very unlikely I will ever visit again. Had a look at the walk that the kids did earlier.

Spent a little time at the point where the climb used to commence, the track is still visible but the chain has gone.

Called in at the Shell servo to buy fuel – diesel was $3.03 a litre! Filled up and paid $150 for the privilege.

Made a quick trip to the Post Office to post my postcards before returning to the camp grounds.

The rest of the day followed the pattern of yesterday. A trip to the swimming pool then the short drive to the pub for a few drinks, a meal and a game of Exploding Kittens before bed.

More Yulara

15th September 2023

Distance: 4 Km

A Rest Day

Not much happened today. Mid morning I walked to the “Town Square” to visit the IGA to stock up on food and bread in particular. It was a 15 minute walk from the campground but on my return I was reminded that I was supposed to get postcards so I drove back!

Visited the camp swimming pool in the afternoon which was very refreshing in the heat.

Later that afternoon we all went to the outback pub for a couple of drinks and a game of Exploding Kittens which was a lot of fun.

At 7pm Andrew, Katie, Dale and I boarded a bus for the Field of Lights an art installation in a large paddock nearby. It was colourful, not very bright and expensive – to be honest it was an underwhelming experience.

First Full Day at Yulara

14th September 2023

Distance: 179 Km

Did all the washing this morning. Got out the long line to hang it on and it was only while hanging washing on this line that I realised that the adjacent boundary fence was sturdier and longer – Doh! Even worse the home made attachments failed in the wind while we were away and some garments trailed in the red soil. The fence was definitely better. It didn’t matter that much – a quick rinse and they were dry again in about 40 minutes.

Katie, Andrew and Dale were up early to go on a camel ride but we had a more leisurely morning before setting out for The Olgas (Kata Tjuta). On our previous visit we had neglected to bring water so were unable to explore them.

Kata Tjuta – The Olgas

Our first stop was the viewing platform looking at Kata Tjuta over the dunes. It is a good introduction to them, from this platform you can also see Ayers Rock in the distance’

Walpa Gorge

This time our first visit was to Walpa Gorge, the ground was rough and strewn with boulders but I made it nearly the whole way. It was a very enjoyable walk and the breeze kept the flies away.

Drove on to the Valley of the Winds, it was a long trek to the Kara Lookout from the carpark, made more difficult in places where they had constructed a rock pavement. Frankly it was too difficult for me so I turned round and came back. I think I was pretty tired from the Walpa Gorge walk so will try again another day.

Valley of the Winds (First Attempt)

Returned to the main road and to the rock itself (Uluru), we drove round the Rock visiting the Mutitjulu Waterhole and Kantju Gorge. In my opinion now that the climb is no longer allowed the place has lost a focal point (and I say this as someone who never wanted to climb the rock anyway).

Uluru – Ayers Rock

That evening we drove to the sunset viewing area to watch Uluru at sunset, it was an underwhelming experience when I first saw it and I can’t say it had aged any better. Sure it did seem to change colour but not that much.

Sunset

Finally home to bed in the dark and very tired after today’s adventures.

Kulgera to Yulara

13th September 2023

Distance: 326 Km

Fuel: 10 Litres

Arriving at Uluru today!

The kids turned up at about 9am after spending the night camping at the border. We were ready and drove into the fuel stop to meet them. Kulgera is reckoned to be the most central pub in the country – it claims to be the First and Last in the NT.

For some reason the pub has a rotary clothes line full of old shoes and boots.

Steady drove north along the Stuart Highway until the roadhouse at the turn off for the Lasseter Highway to Uluru where we stopped for an ice cream while Dale refuelled before continuing west toward the rock.

Refuelled at the roadhouse about 80 km before the Yulara resort (only 10 litres at $3 a litre) but out here they have you over a barrel, fuel stops are few and far between.

Arrived at the Ayers Rock Resort Campground early afternoon and after a short period queueing finally were allocated our powered sites. Quickly set up next to Katie and Geoff.

The others decided to go to the viewing area to watch Uluru change colour at sunset but we will go another night, we are here for four nights so plenty of time.

Our plans to travel home through Queensland are in jeopardy because of the bushfires around Tennant Creek and along the Barkly Highway and we may have to return home the way we came.

Coober Pedy to Kulgera Roadhouse

12th September 2023

Distance: 423Km

Fuel: 51 Litre

Leaving SA

Up early and showered in order to be at the IGA when it opened to get bread and milk to last for a few days.

We all set off at about 10am with the first stop the Cadney Homestead for fuel and coffee. Fuel economy is very poor because of head winds (as it has been for most of the trip to date).

Stopped again at Marla for fuel and a toilet break. Fuel will only get more expensive as we travel north.

After about 410 km crossed the border into the Northern Territory where we stopped briefly at the sign.

The kids stayed at the border to free camp but we drove on to the Kulgera Roadhouse where there was a campsite with facilities. The cost of diesel there was $2.90 a litre

A Map

Just to give you an idea of the trip around Australia as a whole here is a rough map of the journey. It doesn’t show where I actually stayed – just the centre of the town – nor does it show any of the side trips.

The idea is that it gives you an overall view.

9th June 2017–Barkly Homestead to Camooweal

Distance: 263 km
Fuel: 32 L

It was bitterly cold this morning; only 9’C in my camper according to the gauge – there was some delay while I plucked up the courage to get out of my snug bed. By the time I showered, ate my cereal and had my coffee my hands were frozen and I had to dig about in the back of the car for my warmest jacket. Because it was so cold I was off pretty early – in fact before 8am, by far the earliest to date I think.

As I drove along the Barkly Highway I found myself reflecting on how much I enjoy looking at the Australian bush to the point of almost Dorothea MacKellarishness (though less poetic).

A lot more traffic on the Barkly Highway of course – ‘a lot’ being a relative term meaning that I had to overtake about five caravans and a couple of road trains and saw a couple of dozen vehicles passing in the opposite direction.

The head wind of the past few days is playing havoc with my fuel consumption. It is a very cool wind too, coming from the south east, I wear my light jacket even in the mid afternoon.

Today my journey crossed into Queensland from the NT and a different time zone so I was able to take a picture of the border from the NT with my car half an hour ahead of me in Queensland.

Fortunately this time difference also meant that I didn’t arrive at the caravan park at quite such an absurd time of the morning than would have otherwise been the case.

Now I am back in familiar territory I am consciously trying to stay at towns and roadhouses I have not stopped at before because often in Australia there is only one road between distant places and the tendency is to stay at the same places. Camooweal is one of those little border towns half way between Mt Isa and the Stuart Highway where you need to stop for fuel and not much else though it does have a fair sized pub and two caravan parks.