25th May 2019–Bourke

Distance: 262km

BTW yesterday I maligned the town of Cunnamulla by saying it was shut, in fact it was a Queensland public holiday so it had every right to be (though that is no excuse for shutting the tourist information office).

Definitely no need to rush today, only travelling 260km down the road to Bourke so everything was very leisurely and I didn’t leave the caravan park until nearly 10am (kicking out time).

Back in NSW

Nothing very exciting to report on the drive south except crossing back into NSW and stopping briefly in the tiny town of Enngonia for a short break. My only complaint about these back roads is that they are very short on rest stops.EnngoniaEnngonia

Found a nice caravan park close to town and was given a very wide grassy site so decided, because the weather forecast is good and it is the weekend, to set up my gazebo and stay for two nights. Didn’t go anywhere after setting up, read my book and had a thoroughly lazy day. Will get fuel and look around Bourke tomorrow but today is a rest day.


24th May 2019–Cunnamulla

Distance: 407km
Fuel: 75L

Topped up with a few litres of fuel at one of these 24hours card only service stations.

Drove to Thargomindah supposedly the furthest town in Australia from the sea, apart from that fame it is just another small town where I stopped briefly.


About 40km of the road between Quilpie and Thargomindah was dirt and I kicked up a lot of dust. I wasn’t too worried about that at the time but it did have an effect as we shall see later. I found the top vent cracked open even though, before setting out,  I ensure it is firmly shut – I can only assume that the extra vibration from the dirt road bounced it loose.

Quilpie to Thargomindah

From Thargomindah it was all sealed road and the next stop was Eulo another small town though this one did have an historic Police Cell.

EuloEulo Police CellsEulo Police CellsEulo Police Cells

Finally arrived at Cunnamulla just after 2pm and checked into a caravan park. Immediately after unhitching the trailer I drove to get fuel and visit the tourist information office. No problem with the fuel but unbelievably the tourist office was closed. It was right next to the Cunnamulla Fella but there was no one about, indeed for a Friday afternoon the town seemed deserted with about two cars parked in the business centre.


Back to the caravan park and opened up the camper. Dust had got in via the back (kitchen) door, my fault, I had been slackening off the screw latches to reduce the pressure on the rubber seal and it looks like I over did it. Oh well, spent 20 minutes wiping down the kitchen and its containers. Later I found that the open roof vent had sucked dust from the kitchen into the cabin, fortunately not much  but enough to need shaking off a small section of the bedding directly under my internal vents. Not a disaster but if I travel on dirt again with the camper I will stop and double check these things first.


Apart from that I spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening listening to the radio and reading. I will probably be back in NSW tomorrow and home on Monday or Tuesday.

23rd May 2019–More Quilpie

Distance: 20km

Just before 9am I walked into Quilpie – the caravan park is only a block from the highway and a block from the town centre. I was going to see all the attractions.

First stop – Mural Park. Yes, it has a Mural!

Quilpie Mural Park

Next door was the Railway Museum – once they had a railway.

Quilpie Railway MuseumQuilpie Railway MuseumQuilpie Railway MuseumQuilpie Railway Museum

A very short walk further on I came across the Quilpie Military History Museum.

Quilpie Military History MuseumQuilpie Military History Museum

Called into the Offshear’s Bakery for a fairly decent hot pie then it was down one of the wide side streets to find St Finbarr’s Church and its Opal Altar. Actually St Mathew’s on the other side of the road was a more interesting building, St Finbarr’s was a modern nondescript construction but it has the alter that is ‘famous’.

St Mathews QuilpieSt Finbarr's ChurchSt Finbarr's ChurchSt Finbarr's ChurchSt Finbarr's Church

The streets in a way show how old the town is, they are very wide – the usual reason given for these wide streets in Australian country towns is that they allow enough room for a bullock team to turn round without being unharnessed.

Quilpie Quilpie - Back Street

Further down the street and round the corner was the Powerhouse Museum with one remaining diesel engine.

Quilpie Powerhouse MuseumQuilpie Powerhouse MuseumQuilpie Powerhouse MuseumQuilpie Powerhouse Museum

Following these visits I strolled round town before walking back to the caravan park for a cup of tea, a sandwich and a rest before the afternoon’s adventures.


Early afternoon I set off in the car back to Baldy Top lookout, where I parked and wandered up the path to the top. It wasn’t a long climb but it was definitely rough and very steep in places but I made it to the top safely and enjoyed the view.

Quilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top LookoutQuilpie Baldy Top Lookout

Back into town for a flat white coffee at one of the coffee bars the town offers then returned to the caravan park for a shower and a chance to read my book.

Just after 5pm decided to stroll up the road to the Quilpie Bowling Club for a meal, it was almost deserted when I arrived but the girl behind the bar told me that the bistro was open so I got a beer and looked at the menu. Ended up choosing a rump steak and chips (I always forgo the veggies or salad). Tuned out to be a nicely cooked meal the chips were excellent and the steak was cooked just how I like it so I celebrated with a couple more schooners before returning to the caravan park.

I enjoyed my day in Quilpie.

22nd May 2019–Quilpie

Distance: 436km
Fuel: 35L

Woke up just before dawn so I watched the sun come up before I had a shower. Today I intend a fairly long drive to Quilpie taking in Windorah on the way, there is a more direct route to Quilpie partly using an unsealed road but there was something in Windorah I wanted to see.

I am still surprised how much water there is, some of the countryside is very green.

Stonehenge to QuilpieStonehenge to QuilpieStonehenge to QuilpieStonehenge to Quilpie

The visit to Windorah was to see the Solar Plant which uses mirrors to concentrate the heat of the sun to produce power. I had intended to buy food but the local shop didn’t really have much. Windorah was, perhaps slightly bigger than Stonehenge but not by much.

Windorah Solar FarmWindorah Solar FarmWindorahWindorah

Then it was on to Quilpie. The road was mostly single lane with some wider sections for overtaking though personally I wasn’t stuck behind anything and only passed a few vehicles going the other way.

Stonehenge to Quilpie

A widened section of the road was an emergency airstrip. I have come across these before they are always a long way from town (which usually have their own airstrip) I presume they are to serve the local farms.

Airstrip Between Windorah and QuilpieAirstrip Between Windorah and Quilpie

After arriving at Quilpie and going through the usual business of finding a caravan park, (the girl in the information office told me that there are two) I drove a few kms out of town to Baldy Top Lookout, didn’t actually climb to the top might save that for tomorrow.

Baldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top LookoutBaldy Top Lookout

At the local airstrip is a memorial to Amy Johnson who landed at Quilpie during her 1930 attempt to break Bert Hinkler’s record time flying from London to Australia. She didn’t beat his record but became the first solo female flyer to make the trip.

Amy Johnston Landed hereAmy Johnston Landed here

Bought 35 litres fuel as I was down to less than 100km worth in the tank but at $1.62 a litre I didn’t want to fill up.

21st May 2019–Stonehenge

Distance: 359km
Fuel: 23L

Another early morning, his time I went for a stroll into town to get milk and a few supplies before leisurely preparing to leave.

Am a bit fed up with visiting places I have been to before so today turned round and headed south to Longreach before turning off south west toward Stonehenge and Windorah.

Filled up with fuel in Longreach to ensure I had enough to get to Cunnamulla if there is no fuel available on the way (there is). The highway was single lane but in pretty good condition and I only met a few vehicles travelling the other way.

Longreach to StonehengeLongreach to Stonehenge

Arrived at Stonehenge early afternoon and decided to stay there for the night. The Barcoo Council has a caravan park which is only $16 a night.


Set myself up then wandered over to the community centre to pay, there the girl told me about an interesting tourist drive nearby called The John Egan Track. As I had most of the afternoon to kill I decided to go. It was rough! but very enjoyable, I lost the track a couple of times but found it again. There is even the 100 year old dog fence marking the southern boundary.

Road to StonehengeRoad to StonehengeAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan Track190521 031 Stonehenge The John Egan TrackAlong the John Egan Track190521 036 Stonehenge The John Egan Track

It took over half an hour to complete the 8km track. When I returned I went to the pub for a couple of beers before making myself an evening meal. It was lovely when the sun went down because the flies disappeared, I can’t remember the flies being so bad for many, many years.

19-05-21 006  Winton to StonehengeStonehenge PubStonehengeStonehenge

20th May 2019–Winton

Distance: 405km
Fuel: 39L

Woke to a spectacular sunrise. Went for a walk first thing to the local bakery to buy a fresh loaf and a couple of rolls for lunch.

Blackall Dawn

Heading north today, wasn’t sure where I would stop so just set off. BTW At the moment I am listening to a John Grisham audiobook called, ‘The Whistler”, not a bad story.

First major town is Barcaldine but I stayed there not that long ago so didn’t stop at all and headed toward Longreach.

Stopped for a while at Ilfracombe and took some pictures of its machinery mile and walked round the town before having one of my cheese rolls – wish I had bought more, they were excellent.

IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeMachinery Mile, IlfracombeRoad Train, Ilfracombe

Drove on to Longreach where I stopped again for a break.

Longreach Stockman's Hall of FameLongreach Stockman's Hall of FameQANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach QANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach QANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach QANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach QANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach QANTAS Founders Museum, Longreach

Arrived in Winton mid afternoon and booked into one of the not very promising caravan parks that the town has to offer. The main street is undergoing major renovations, the entire eastbound lane has been torn up and a detour in place.


Minor domestic disaster, my china mug has cracked, must have endured one bump too many.

19th May 2019–Blackall

Distance: 318km
Fuel: 33L

Slept a bit too well last night and didn’t wake up until nearly 7am, usually by that time I have showered and had breakfast, not that it mattered because there is no rush today. Heading north to Blackall.

Left the caravan park just after 9am and didn’t stop until I reached Augathella (where the writer of the Smiley stories grew up). Stopped there for a coffee and snack at the pub and a bit of a walk about to stretch the legs. The coffee was OK but the scone had seen better days (I suppose it is Sunday) – should have stuck to coffee and raison toast for $6.


Anyway after a decent break set off again. There had been signs warning of cattle droving on the road and so there was.


Arrived in Blackall about 1.30pm found the only caravan park. I have not stayed here before but I guess apart from mining it is famous for being the site of the ‘’Black Stump”. Also had a look of the original pioneer bore which only produced water unsuitable for drinking then came across the current bore which does supply the town water. I have got used to showering in water smelling of sulphur and the water furring up my kettle but whether artesian bore water is drinkable is debatable in my opinion but they seem to have plenty of it because sprinklers were going all over town.

 BlackallBlackall Black StumpBlackall Black StumpBlackall Black StumpBlackallBlackall Pioneer BoreBlackall Pioneer BoreBlackall Pioneer BoreBlackallBlackall Town BoreBlackall Town BoreBlackall Ram Park and Museum190519 036 Blackall Ram Park and Museum190519 039 Blackall Ram Park and Museum190519 043 Blackall Ram Park and Museum190519 045 Blackall Ram Park and Museum190519 047 BlackallBlackallBlackallBlackall

BTW The flies are terrible thank gawd for Aerogard.

18th May 2019–Charleville

Distance:  426km
Fuel: 42L

Wasn’t sure which way to go today but in the end decided to go west, initially thought I might stay at Mitchell but once I arrived at that town it was still early so decided to push on to Charleville.

On the road to Charleville

I didn’t stop in Roma because it is not long since I was last there. Click here to see that visit.

Passed through various scenery, some open paddocks others more wooded. The weather so far on this trip has been perfect.

On the road to CharlevilleAtOn the road to Charleville

Stopped a couple of times once at Muckadilla – somewhere I have stopped before, it is a tiny town, little more than a service station and a few buildings but let’s face it who would not want to stop somewhere called Muckadilla? The name just appeals, even better they even offer free camp sites behind the community hall.

Muckadilla Hall

At Charleville found a caravan park that I had stayed at before which was pleasant enough and set up before going for a walk. Charleville is also a place I have visited a couple of times before, the last time not that long ago, I have seen the Bilbys before and it was closed while a show was in progress so I didn’t stop. Click here to see the last visit.


There must have been a rodeo in town because the commentary could be heard all afternoon and evening from the caravan park the activities were followed by a band which was quite enjoyable.

Had a bit of a scare in the evening when I hurt my back and could hardly walk but fortunately by the morning it was back to normal.

17th May 2019–Miles, Qld

Distance: 365km
Fuel: 40L

Good sleep, only down to 15C in the camper during the night so the summer doona was fine. As usual up about 6.30am and straight into the shower before having breakfast.

Reasonable drive to Miles stopped a couple times as before the stretch my legs and use the composting loo much like yesterday.

Arrive in Miles just before 1pm not that pleased with the caravan park I thought it was a bit pricey even though it has brand new unisex toilets/showers. It is crammed between the highway and a railway track so noise might be an issue.


After setting up went across the road to the Miles Historical Museum. It is one of those community museums full of nic nacs  and junk, always quite interesting though some rooms were a bit like visiting my grandmother.

Miles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles Historical MuseumMiles

15th May 2018–Lightning Ridge

Distance: 448 Km
Fuel: 49 L

Even as I left Roma I had not decided where I would stop for the night. I have previously stopped at Hebel (one pub, one store and about twenty houses) as well as Lightning Ridge (opal mining centre of NSW) so decide to just drive and see how felt when I arrived.

It was very dry country that I drove through, the grass was almost yellow but the weather was perfect, no need for air conditioning today. Didn’t stop at St George or Dirranbandi just kept going until I reached Hebel.

180515 102 On the Road to Lightning Ridge180515 103 On the Road to Lightning Ridge

When I was last in Hebel (click here) the General Store was up for sale with the threat of closure at Christmas if not sold but it was open when I arrived. I stopped in for a coffee and one of their home made pies (they are really good) and walked to their History Circle just to stretch my legs.

180515 001 Hebel180515 003 Hebel180515 005 Hebel180515 007 Hebel

It was only just after midday and the journey had been very easy so far; I decided to push on to Lightning Ridge which was only about 70km further on.

Goodbye Queensland:

180515 010 NSW Border

Arrived in Lightning Ridge at about 1pm and checked into the first caravan park I came to.

180515 012 Lightning Ridge180515 034 Lightning Ridge Outback Resort and Caravan Park180515 037 Lightning Ridge Outback Resort and Caravan Park180515 105 On the Road to Lightning Ridge180515 015 Lightning Ridge180515 017 Lightning Ridge180515 018 Lightning Ridge180515 019 Lightning Ridge180515 021 Lightning Ridge180515 027 Lightning Ridge180515 030 Lightning Ridge Artesian Bore Pool

Visited the Tourist Information Centre and paid $1 for a Car Door Tour guide. I don’t know if it is just an Aussie thing but a number of towns have these guides. An old car door is painted an appropriate colour and numbered indicating a point of interest, personally I quite enjoy them and so easy to find rather than the usual council signs which often peter out in the middle of nowhere.

180515 025 Lightning Ridge

The evening meal? Went to the pub, they had a bistro but all the meals were $28 then I noticed the bar sign for food served all day. Pizza – $15 – that’ll do me. It was quite good too, went down well with a couple of beers.

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