Turning East

25th May 2024

Distance: 592 Km

Fuel: 68 L

I think that the Renner Springs Roadhouse is the worst caravan park I have ever stayed at. I am sure there are showers with hot water but I couldn’t find one. Could not wait to leave so packed up as quickly as possible, had breakfast, a cold shower and was on my way by 7.30am.

My first stop was at the John Flynn Memorial (founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service) just a short distance from the turn off toward Mount Isa.

I waited until I had completed 200km before finding a rest area to stretch my legs and empty the 20 litres of fuel that I was carrying into the fuel tank. This meant that I had a nearly full tank to get me to Camooweal without refuelling.

The road itself was in a very poor state after the summer floods with some sections full of pot holes and even whole sections of roadway missing (replaced with gravel)

For the first time on my travels I didn’t stop at Three Ways however did stop at the Barkly Homestead which has had a facelift since I was last there but not for fuel only for a snack and a rest.

The road from the homestead onward was much better and very easy driving and I arrived at Camooweal Roadhouse just after 2pm having entered Queensland a dozen kilometres before and gained the final half hour to be back on AEST.

Booked in to the Roadhouse and set up my camper, rang a caravan park in Cloncurry to book for tomorrow night before having a lovely warm shower and settling down for the afternoon and evening. Filled up with fuel while I was at it, not cheap at $2.23/L but much cheaper than Barkly Homestead or any of the roadhouses on the Stuart Highway.

Today should be the last really long drive of my trip unless I decide NSW is too cold and do a long dash home.

Heading South

24th May 2024

Distance: 525 Km

Fuel: 59 L

Today was spent driving south down the Stuart Highway, it is a long road between Darwin and Adelaide, in the NT some of it has no speed limit at all and most of the rest is 130kph. I didn’t go that fast – sticking to about 104/5kph or 110kph according to my speedo.

In one place I came across a grass fire, not sure if it was a controlled burn but there was a small truck in attendance.

The rest of the drive was through pleasant countryside.

Stopped for fuel at Daly Waters Roadhouse.

Roadhouses are busy places, they might be the only services for hundreds of kms, selling not only fuel but food and groceries as well as usually having a bar. Resting places for road train drivers.

Passed the turn off for the famous Barkly Stock Route.

Also made a couple of rest breaks, one at this memorial to Sir Charles Todd and the inland telegraph which joined Australia to the rest of .the world via Darwin.

When I arrived at Renner Springs they had no powered sites left so took an unpowered one. Not a very well appointed roadhouse to be honest, probably been as well off in a rest area but it is only for one night.

Katherine Gorge

23rd May 2024

Distance: 75 Km

Fuel: 39 L

Had only a couple of projects today but set out early to avoid the heat of the day.

Katherine Gorge is about 26km from the caravan park so that was where I headed first, I have been here before about seven years ago.

These days there is a charge to enter the National Park and they have constructed a lot of infrastructure including a brand new visitor centre and paths with railings. The boat cruises up the gorge are still there but I am not a fan of boat cruises, even the best ones last far too long, I just wanted to climb up the gorge like I did last time. The route is now a created path with a handrail the whole way, it was great for me but perhaps not as much fun as before but you cannot complain about the views.

After returning from the gorge I drove straight into Katherine for fuel and bread – that was my day apart from a brief stop at the Katherine School of the Air. I could not see the sign for tours so perhaps they no longer do them?

Katherine

22nd May 2024

Distance: 309 Km

Once again not far to drive today, just under 300km to cover.

Stopped a couple of times after leaving Timber Creek.

At one stop was a massive rock as a memorial to the opening of the Bentine Highway.

Arrived at the Caravan Park at about 12.30pm I was able to use the credit note I received last September when I was forced to cancel the trip to Alice Springs because of the bushfires closing the Stuart and Barkly Highways.

After settling in drove to the Katherine Woolworths to top up some supplies.

Timber Creek

21st May 2024

Distance: 343 Km

Fuel: 43 L

Not a great distance to travel today but moving from one time zone to another means that our arrival time will be 1.5 hours later.

Set off about 8.30 (ish) but stopped to view The Grotto just 35 km outside Wyndham. At the bottom is a swimming hole where it is safe to swim (ie no crocodiles). Too many steps for me so I admired it from above.

The second stop was at Kununurra where I stopped for fuel and filled up my empty container.

The journey from Wyndham to Timber Creek was through different types of countryside. Once I entered the Northern territory the speed limit became 130kph abut I just upped my speed to about 105kph (in WA anyone towing a trailer is limited to 100kph).

At about 1.30pm arrived at Timber Creek Roadhouse where I filled up with expensive fuel and booked a powered site. The creek at the rear of the park has Freshwater crocs in it though I didn’t see any until..

The Roadhouse has a show of feeding the Freshwater Crocs at 5pm three times a week so I went along. I had seen this last time I visited and quite enjoyed it. Unfortunately the spectacle has been lost somewhat, previously you were on the bridge looking down at the action whereas this time everybody was kept behind a rope barrier, in the end I just wandered off before it was finished.

Wyndham–Out and About

20th May 2024

Distance: 32 Km

Fuel: 41 L

It is light before 6am and I was up with the dawn. First job was to wash my dirty clothes, have got into the habit of doing this regularly rather than letting it build up. Followed this up with Weetbix and coffee for breakfast after a shower.

Was on the road early while it was lovely and cool, first stop a lookout over locking the town and the port. These town lookouts seem to be a happy accident a result of another need. In this case it seems to be a water tower and a communications tower but the town has ended up with a grand tourist asset.

After spending some time admiring the view and enjoying the winding road to get there I returned through the town to the old town and the port. It must be a pretty important port the whole area is a working port with a security status. I only drove where I was allowed but it was very interesting.

Then it was time to visit the Supermarket for a few odds and ends before going to the Big Croc at the entrance to the town. It was made by students at the local TAFE out of wire and concrete.

Filled up with fuel for tomorrow at the only outlet in town, it closes early afternoon. Was pleasantly surprised at the price of $2.08/L.

Late afternoon dismantled the gazebo ready for leaving tomorrow and had a shower before making some dinner.

It was pleasant and relaxing day.

Wyndham

19th May 2024

Distance: 328Km

The night at Little Panton River Rest Area passed easily enough. I was up at first light making some tea and a bowl of cereal. It was a pleasant enough site to stay overnight, the people who had arrived after dark soon took down their tents and were gone long before I was ready to leave. While I was getting ready to leave I put out my folding solar panel.

I found something missing from my camping equipment, I don’t have a suitable sized container into which to siphon water, I used my electric kettle as a makeshift water carrier but it is something I will have to rectify.

Todays drive was relatively short after the marathon yesterday, I stopped a couple of times but still arrived in Wyndham before noon.

The road splashed through a couple of fords/floodways.

Found a nice site and was able to set up my gazebo at the back of the camper

Took the opportunity to wash all my bedding as there was a good breeze as well at the temperature being in the low 30s. in the event it was completely dry within 2 hours.

In the park grounds is a 2000 year old Boab Tree.

Heading East

18th May 2024

Distance: 715 Km

Fuel: 80 L

Was not able to book a site at Fitzroy Crossing but was told to get there early. Didn’t rush but packed up early while the morning was still cool, remembered to return the amenities block key to the Roadhouse and headed off.

For a roadhouse caravan park I quite liked this one, there was plenty of shady trees, the amenities block was good enough plus it had a swimming pool. The roadhouse itself not only served snacks (as they all do) but it had a bar, a restaurant and the fuel was cheaper than in Broome itself.

I must have set off about 7.30 am (ish) on another warm, sunny day. Again the scenery varied as I drove along

At Fitzroy Crossing the bridge had been rebuilt after being destroyed in the wet season floods and basically cut northern WA in half. I filled up with fuel but it was only 10.30am so decided to push on to Halls Creek (serves them right for not letting me book earlier). I had previously stayed at Fitzroy Crossing and went on a river cruise seven years ago.

There are still a few single lane bridges left along the highway

There is a caravan park at Halls Creek so thought I would try my luck there or if I was too tired would stop at one of the rest areas on the way.

Made a few stops for a rest, to stretch my legs or just enjoy the view. When I arrived at Halls Creek discovered that the caravan park was actually closed for some reason. Had a quick look at the “Camping” book and found a rest area about 30 km further on. So was off again. It turned out to be a rest area on a river, the main road went over a bridge but the rest area had a ford in the middle – probably was the original road.

Anyway it looked good enough to me, no facilities other that a couple of picnic shelters. Got the stove out and made a cup of teas. The sun was pretty low in the sky by now but put out my portable solar panel just to ensure the camper battery has the highest charge I can get.

A caravan turned up while I was wandering about but decided to move another 9 km up the road where there was a rest area with more facilities. It was only after dark another person pulled in for the night.

Broome

17th May 2024

Distance: 88 Km

Fuel: 39 L

First thing this morning was to wash my dirty clothes, there were only a few so it wasn’t long before they were on the line.

Just before 9am set off for Broome, First stop the visitor centre to buy postcards, They had a very poor selection. Postcards are getting harder and harder to buy.

Then it was a visit to Coles for some fruit, bread, milk and other essentials. Was going to buy some beer but the grog shops don’t open until noon for some reason (see later)

Took a drive through Chinatown but it seemed very crowded, then to Town Beach.

Followed this with a drive to Cable Beach (of course)

It was still not quite noon so I waited in the air conditioned comfort of the shopping mall with a bubble tea – never had one before, it was OK but I must admit I prefer real tea even on a hot day.

Finally It was noon so I drove into a BWS to buy a six pack of beer. When I went to pay for it they asked for my ID, I asked if he thought I was too young to buy booze. It was explained that everyone has to produce ID and can only make one purchase in 24 hours. My ID was scanned to see if I was banned, fortunately it came up green.

Early afternoon drove the 30kms back to the Roadhouse where I filled up with fuel in preparation for moving on tomorrow.

Read my book for a while then had a swim in the pool (it was 37°) followed by a shower before settling down for a meal and a newly purchased beer.

A Long Drive

16th May 2024

Distance: 670 Km

Fuel: 46 L

This morning was always going to be a long day with nearly 700km to cover. I left as soon as I had a shower and finished packing up. I planned to stop several times, twice for fuel and a couple of times for a rest.

The scenery varied all day the only consistent thing was the sun and the heat, it got up to 37°.