1st June 2017–Kununurra Day One

Distance: 4 km
Fuel: 33 L

Up before 6am presumably because, being on the edge of a time zone, the sun rises unreasonably early. Anyway I showered, washed yesterday’s clothes, had brekkie etc while most people were still asleep.

At a far more reasonable hour drove into town to the Visitor’s Centre where a helpful lady booked me on a flight to the Bungle Bungles with a walking tour of Cathedral Gorge. Pretty pleased with that, there is also a chance of a helicopter ride when I get there (hoping and clutching my credit card). Actually I thought it was another seaplane ride but reading the brochure it is a normal plane and we land on a dirt airstrip in the National Park.

While I was in the shopping centre I also bought, wrote and sent postcards to all the usual suspects as I had a coffee and a vanilla slice (haven’t had a vanilla slice for years).

As I will be away all day tomorrow filled the car up with fuel too.

The main event today was a cruise on Lake Argyle; the bus picked me up at 1pm and drove half a dozen of us to the lake. On the way it stopped for 15 minutes at the Argyle Downs homestead. This was the original house built by the Durack family when they first started grazing in the region in the mid 1800s. It was dismantled when the property was to be flooded by the dam and rebuilt on higher ground.

The cruise itself was so so. Everybody else seemed to enjoy it but personally I thought it was a bit dull, no dolphins just a few freshwater crocs, some short eared wallabies, the odd wallaroo and lots of water. The dam wall itself is made of locally quarried rocks and clay there is no concrete except in the pump towers.

Just before sunset some of the passengers went swimming in the lake, the water temperature is 26’C.

There was one redeeming feature – two cans of free beer. Yes, I know it is me but cruises and water don’t excite me much.

Statistics

It has been six weeks since I started on this trip so time for some statistics (you know… those things made up on the spur of the moment) rounded to the nearest whole number.

Total Distance travelled: 10995 km
Fuel Used: 1099 litres
Fuel Cost: $1510
Accommodation Cost: $1384

31st May 2017–Warmun to Kununurra

Distance: 332 km

Was in two minds whether to go to Wyndham or Kununurra today but I was ready to leave very early (7.30am) so decided to go to Wyndham for a look then continue on to Kununurra.

The journey to Wyndham was through a series of interesting ranges and winding passes.

Just outside Wyndham is an area called The Grotto which is a hole in the ground with very dodgy looking stairs.

Wyndham has a Big Croc…

I did want to go to the Five Rivers Lookout BUT there was a sign which said, “No Caravans” so that was that.

Kununurra is only 70km from Wyndham so it was an easy drive. Found a caravan park right in the centre of town where I booked in for a few nights and also booked a cruise on Lake Argyle for tomorrow arvo. There is a dinner cruise on Lake Kununurra but I think I have eaten enough Barramundi for a while.

After setting up my camp including my gazebo and doing my laundry I went for a drive. First stop the Kellys Knob Lookout with its views over town.

Then it was down to Celebrity Park and Lake Kununurra.

Lake Argyle and Lake Kununurra are part of the failed Ord River scheme. I have read the signs but still have only the vaguest notion of why the scheme needed two separate dams so you will have to Google it.

When the sun went down I was feeling pretty hungry so I wandered into the town centre looking for a restaurant and eventually found an Asian one opposite a Subway when I had almost given up. The meal wasn’t bad at all but I think I need to do better preparation in future; wandering about in strange towns is not the best way to find a feed.

Kununurra is only about 40km from the WA/NT border. The next town is Katherine on the Stuart Highway 500km and a time zone away.

30th May 2017–Fitzroy Crossing to Warmun

Distance: 468 km
Fuel: 55 L

This morning, before packing up, I went for a drive to the old Fitzroy Crossing. It is still there but the river silt either side has effectively blocked it off. There were some tyre tracks but they had come from the river sand flats. It is still only a metre above the water line now so one can understand why it was replaced by a higher level bridge.

The drive to Halls Creek where I had originally intended to stay was pretty straight forward though there were many single lane bridges on the way which had to be approached with some caution.

At Halls Creek I filled up with fuel but because it was only 10.30am decided to press on to Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse only another 160km further on. Warmun is a small Aborigine community who own and run the roadhouse.

At Warmun I enquired about a site and was told to take one and come back to tell them which site it was – it was $35 for a powered site. Once I had set up I wandered over to the Helicopter Flight office and asked if there were anybody who wanted a flight but needed another to make up the numbers. Oh dear, nothing looking likely and at $400 per person I wasn’t going to pay for two seats. Will try again in the morning because Kununurra is only 200km away.

What was an almost empty caravan park was nearly full by the time 6pm came round.

28th May 2017–Derby

Distance: 21 km

Today I exhausted the charms of Derby. I had to wait for the park shop to open for me to buy ice but once that was done I set off.

First stop the Visitors’’ Centre where I parked the car and followed the Heritage Walk Guide. It was a typical self guided town walk a mixture of what had been but was gone, a brief town history and an explanation of what still remained. It passed a pleasant hour or so in the cool of the morning.

There were the Boab Trees down the main street.

The propeller and anchor of a ship, SS Colac, that was damaged and sank at the wharf in 1910.

The Derby Museum.

The Old Woolshed and Tramway restoration project.

Finally the Derby Picture Gardens a once typical bush open air cinema, alas only the screen remains.

By now I was a bit peckish so I called in at the Jila Gallery Cafe for coffee and cheesecake.

Finally back at my starting point I decided to revisit the wharf because I had missed the Centenary Mosaic when I visited yesterday.

The tide was out so the tidal mud flats were visible.

I drove to Derby’s Old Gaol next to the Police Station. What an awful place it must have been, just a cage with a tin roof and rings in the floor for attaching chains, No toilets. Terrible!

The original Police Station is long gone having been eaten by termites but even termites didn’t like the steel cage.

Finally I was out walking looking for lunch when I came across this hollow Boab tree which was just part of the streetscape. From one side it looked a healthy solid Boab from the other it was a different matter.

25th May 2017–Broome Day Four

Distance: 22 km
Fuel: 45 L

Wash Day! After my shower I straight away got all my laundry washed and on the line. There will be no chance tomorrow and I leave on Saturday so it had to be done.

Once it was on the line I took a drive to the northern end of Cable Beach. There are a number of top class resorts in the area. There is no doubt that the beach is very nice as are the facilities at the back of the beach. It seems to cater mainly for people that fly in on a package holiday though there is one caravan park relatively near by.

An interesting bronze on the Cable Beach seafront commemorated Lord McAlpine the British builder being made a Freeman of Broome.

Drove to Chinatown for a late lunch where I ended up at Bluey’s Fish and Chips – Oh well… it was nice fish.

Had a final drive round Broome before filling up with fuel. It is a town I am getting to know by now, afterwards I returned to the caravan park to get my washing in and for a swim in the pool. BTW it is a very nice pool but about 1.4m in depth all over, certainly not suitable for non swimming children. It has a lap section and a large general area, there are only steps in two places. I have splashed about in it most afternoons since I arrived as it is rarely used and I have it all to myself most of the time.

24th May 2017–Broome Day Three

Distance: 30 km

My temperature estimates yesterday were a bit off – Day 32’C Night 19’C.is more like it.

This morning I was shocked to see clouds so I took a picture of them.

Smile

Went to the Visitors Centre this morning to book a cruise if one was available for today. I was lucky and booked a sunset cruise on Roebuck Bay. They would pick me up at 1.40pm at the Visitors Centre.

As it was only 9.30am I had plenty of time to do other things. I returned to Chinatown for a coffee and time to plan the rest of the day.

The Sun Picture Gardens is an open air cinema, the oldest in the world, built in 1913. It is still in almost original condition.

Next up was a visit to Broome Museum because it had a display about the pearling industry and the attack on Broome in WWII. Normally I avoid small town museums because they tend to be just like visiting my Grandmother’s or Great Aunts’ houses but as country museums go this one was quite interesting.

After the museum I had a look at the Pioneer Cemetery and Town Beach complete with mangroves.

In a day when one cemetery is never enough I also visited the Japanese and Chinese cemeteries. One thing I learned at the Broome museum was why there are so many Japanese and their descendants in Broome – it is all to do with pearling – the White Australia Policy and the notorious English test was not applied to Japanese pearl divers however they and their Australian born descendants were all interned during WWII.

Zoomed back to Chinatown for lunch I thought there was a Thai restaurant there but I must have seen it somewhere else (I’ll find it tomorrow). I could only find one Chinese restaurant among all the cafes and bars so I had lunch there – to be fair after I had eaten and was leaving the area I saw at least two others.

Went back to the caravan park for a shower before the cruise. At the back of my camper was a lizard – he scuttled up a tree.

I was only waiting at the Visitors Centre for five minutes before the cruise bus arrived. We picked up the rest of the passengers before driving onto the beach next to the wharf. A launch came from the boat to pick us up.

…and drove right up the beach.

I’d never seen anything like it but the bloke reckoned he bought it ten years ago.

The cruise was quite interesting (in my opinion all cruises I have ever been on go on far too long. Water can only hold my interest for so long). We did see plenty of Snubfin Dolphins, some Flatback Turtles, a Hammerhead shark, a Dugong and some fish – the first photo is Batwing Fish (or something like that). I have lots of photos of empty water but these are a few with something visible.

The turtles, shark and dugong got away.

It was a sunset cruise…

23rd May 2017–Broome Day Two

Distance: 26 km

Not the most exciting day of my life. Took my car into the Isuzu Service agents in Broome at 8am for its 40000km service. I had been warned last time that this was a major service with all oils and filters changed together with major inspection.

I asked the manager how long the service would take and was told they’d need the car for at least six hours but that they would drive me to and from my accommodation. This they did but from 8.30am until they picked me up at about 3pm I was stuck in the caravan park either reading or drinking tea – it was a slow day.

Finally they called to say that my car was ready, while I waited to be picked up a small (ish) goanna scuttled past – perhaps a metre long over all.

Once I had my car back I drove to one of the two shopping centres (this one on the edge of Chinatown) where I had a hair and beard trim (“Put #1 spacer on your clippers and cut everything above the shoulders”). Felt so much better after that – must remember to take my clippers next time. The young fella that cut my hair was a pommie and kept asking me about how and when I came to Australia

Afterward I strolled around the centre then bought a 6 pack before returning to the caravan park with a six inch Subway Teriyaki Chicken Roll. Wolfed it down with a couple of beers so the day ended OK.

The temperature in Broome has been quite pleasant – about 31”C during the day with fairly low humidity and down to 14/15”C at night. Still not a cloud in the sky and a gentle breeze taking the edge off the heat; a very bearable climate at this time of year.

14th May 2017–Carnarvon to Onslow

Distance: 498.1 Km

A warning…

I have about 35 litres of water and 20 litres of fuel plus a full tank on board so all should be well.

Tom Tom reminded me this is not going to be a complex journey. (Turn left in 406 km)

For a few hundred k’s the landscape wasn’t complex either but first we finally arrive in the tropics.

It’s a flat dry land with termite mounds as far as the eye could see until, at last, some variation with some ridges and hills.

After the turn off to Onslow some salt pans and signs of industry.

Arrived at the caravan park mid afternoon, checked in, parked and went for a walk.

Almost adjacent to my camp site is the beach and a small park with an odd combination of memorials.

Of course the ANZAC Memorial which apparently faces the rising sun. I hope to be up early enough to check this out in the morning.

Then a tribute to a couple of local fishing boats lost at sea (during a cyclone?)

I have to say the following one struck me as really odd.

Finally a bronze showing where we are.

Then it was a stroll into town, past the pub, General Store (I bought an ice cream), not one but two service stations, the council chamber and the town’s library with it’s own public art.

There was more…

As I returned past the pub I heard some loud voices and laughter (not much) but a WA Police paddy wagon came round the corner. As they stopped outside a young fella just opened the police car’s back door and got in. The policeman got out, opened the paddy wagon door and told the fella to get out of the back seat and into the paddy wagon part which he did, the policeman got back in and drove off. It was the politest and most low key disturbance I have ever seen.

12th May 2017–Carnarvon Capers

Distance: 206 Km
Fuel: 33 L

Out and about by 8.30am. Straight to I Mile Jetty to walk it before the day warmed up. I paid my $5 to be able to go on it at the honesty box near the beginning of the wharf.

It was a long walk but worth it; you seem a long way off shore; there is a problem at the end – it seems to be in danger of collapse.

Near the start of the wharf were some relics.

This is the anchor of the cargo ship Korean Star which ran aground in 1988 during Cyclone “Herbie” and broke up. The crew were rescued by flying fox within 45 minutes.

Back to the main part of town to see where the 3km of tramline to the wharf once started.

Next up I took a 75km drive to Blowhole Point and Quobba, didn’t see a blowhole but did see some terrific scenery and beaches.

Don’t you hate overcrowded beaches? Somebody got there first.

Drove for Ks over the worst dirt road for the biggest disappointment of the day. The cairn erected to HMAS Sydney II. It is pathetic and serves absolutely no useful purpose.

Returned to Carnarvon to visit the OTC Space Museum. The OTC Earth Station had some duties tracking and transferring data on the Apollo Missions. To be honest it was not clear what. Until Earth Stations were built at Ceduna and Moree Carnarvon also transmitted video and telecomms traffic via satellite to the UK and the USA. The dish is obsolete now but right next door is the NBN satellite earth station.

My car sheltering in the shade of the dish.

It was still only mid afternoon so I drove around Carnarvon enjoying the sights and taking a walk along the Fascine.

Unfortunately the one thing I could not find was a seafood restaurant that served all day. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.

I do like Carnarvon, it quite appeals to me as a town.

Finally one last photo, The town is on the Gascoyne Delta named after the river that flows to the sea here. This is the mighty Gascoyne River in full flood.

Apparently it is like that most of the time, the exception being when a northern cyclone turns into a rain depression and dumps a lot of water into the river’s catchment then it can become several kilometres wide.

6th May 2017–Geraldton to Kalbarri

Distance: 191 km

I set off this morning expecting to arrive at Kalbarri at about midday but it proved a much more interesting journey than I anticipated and I eventually reached the caravan park at 3.30pm.

Came across a partly restored convict settlement at Lynton – the Port Gregory Convict Hiring Station.

There was a connection to the Anna on whom “The King and I” was based (click on the photo for a bigger version).

Took a side trip to visit Port Gregory; a white beach protected by a reef and what appeared to be good fishing if a seven year old who kept reeling in whiting was anything to go by.

Nearby was Pink Lake and yes, it was pink – some algae that thrives in salt water lakes apparently (like Lake Tyrell).

As I neared Kalbarri there were numerous lookouts on top of the cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. I can’t remember which photo was taken from which lookout.