11th May 2017–Denham to Carnarvon

Distance: 345 km

After leaving Denham called in at Shell Beach again (I forgot to take any photos last time) and this time walked much further along the beach. It really is a remarkable beach.

It literally is just a mass of small shells – millions of them stretching for kms.

The sea is exceptionally salty, I put my hand in and once it had dried it was covered in a thin layer of crusty salt.

Walking back to the car I saw what I thought was a straight shadow across he road; except that there was nothing to cast a shadow.

On closer inspection it was a happy band of caterpillars crossing the road holding hands.

Carnarvon

I arrived in Carnarvon at just after 1pm, booked in to the caravan park and went looking for a tyre place for a wheel alignment. Quickly found a Tyrepower shop and was lucky enough to book the car in immediately. While it was being worked on I had a wander about what looked like the centre of town.

Found a tourist information bureau and obtained a map and a brochure on local attractions. I also had the most unusual meal at a local cafe – egg and bacon on a waffle with maple syrup! I had to try it… actually it wasn’t that bad but I think I will stick to egg, bacon, toast and BBQ sauce in future.

Back at camp noticed the old OTC dish was lit up right behind my ‘campsite’. It is due a visit tomorrow – they claim to have been an important part of the Apollo moon landing, I can’t wait to find out why.

(You do know that if you click on these photos you get the full size version – click on your browsers ‘back’ button to return.)

Looks like another night without the news. The problem with digital TV is that it either works or it doesn’t, there is no snowy but watchable picture when the signal is weak just a mass of blocky pixels with an incomprehensible sound track. Oh well, I can always watch a movie.

Some Statistics:

It is three weeks since I set off so here are some facts:

Distance driven so far: 6800km
Fuel: 647 litres of diesel at a cost of: $870
Most expensive fuel: $1.76/l, Average: $1.34/l
Accommodation (Caravan Parks powered sites): $590

10th May 2017–Monkey Mia

Distance: 60 km
Fuel: 26 L

Got up just after 6am, showered, had breakfast and set off for Monkey Mia at about 7.10am to be at Monkey Mia before 7.45am for the dolphins.

Emus wandering through the car park.

We waited for the ranger at the ranger station meanwhile, in the water, so did the dolphins who have, over many years, successfully trained humans to stand in a line at the water’s edge and feed them fish.

Finally we were allowed down to the waters edge to get closer to the dolphins.

The ranger told us about the dolphins and the history of Monkey Mia which was quite interesting but I must admit after a while my interest waned somewhat and I wandered off to take other photos

Even a spider.

Finally the feeding of the dolphins by selected members of the public.

It would have been a lot more interesting if it was the feeding of the Tiger Sharks who prey on the dolphins but to be fair I did enjoy it, it just went on too long.
Had a coffee at the restaurant and by the time I finished they were at it again. They feed them up until noon with a minimum 10 minute break between sessions.
I decided to look at other local attractions; I called in to Little Lagoon on the way back. There was a French family parked who were flying a drone watching them passed the time (actually there seem to be a lot of French tourists). The lagoon is circular with a very narrow snake like inlet to the sea.

Back in Denham during the afternoon it was quite windy and this looked a lot of fun.

BTW my theory about fuel being more expensive here than on the highway was sort of correct – $1.33 here, $1.32 on the highway. Ummm…

9th May 2017–Denham

Distance: 4.4 Km

Had a rest day. I went to Paul’s Tyre Service to see if I could get a wheel alignment. Nope… Nearest is Carnarvon or Geraldton so went back to the park and swapped the front wheel for the spare.

Had a stroll round Denham, bought a few stamps, a pass to Monkey Mia for tomorrow, some food and washed my dirty clothes.

People I have spoken to really like Denham and I suppose if you like fishing, boating, canoeing etc Denham is the place for you, personally I think that I have just about exhausted its charms.

The Shark Bay Hotel says that it is the most westerly pub in Australia, but wait… there’s more – the caravan park I am staying at bills itself as the most westerly caravan park in Australia. So there you go…

The weather changed this evening so I pulled down the gazebo as a shower was forecast. Still very warm though but slightly windy.

8th May 2017–Kalbarri to Denham

Distance: 391 Km
Fuel: 24 L

Today is a straight drive to Denham with the intention to visit Monkey Mia and see the feeding of the dolphins.

On the way stopped for fuel having decided that fuel was probably cheaper at a roadhouse on the main (only) highway than some small town off the main road. This is as yet an untested theory.

On the way turned off to Hamelin Pool to see the Telegraph Station and the local microbialites and stromatolites – it’s all to do with microscopic life that form communities; thousands of species of bacteria and microbes that make up every few millimetres of these microbial mats. Anyway this is what they look like:

I booked into Denham for 2 nights but I might have to extend that because I noticed a problem with my car which I want to get fixed before anything else.

The right front tyre has scrubbed out badly.

…and it’s goodnight from me.

7th May 2017–Foreign Parts

Distance: 235.3 km
Fuel: 39 L

Today I left Australia and visited the Principality of Hutt River Province. Prince Leonard served me and sold me postcards and a stubbie holder in the Government building. Prince Graeme provided me with a visa for $4 at the Post Office. It was an interesting visit.

Prince Leonard was very nice, here he is putting my purchases in a bag for me.

Natures Window

I was ready to look at a local landmark called Natures Window Alas the road is closed for maintenance until July (they are gold plating it).

Here is a picture of what I would have seen had it been open.

More Scenery

Drove up to Red Bluff to admire the views and see the Zuytdorp Memorial – a Dutch ship wrecked here in about 1712. There were survivors but what became of them is not known.

Finally… Bird Watching

It’s well known that I am an avid bird watcher so today I visited Rainbow Jungle to see what we bird watchers call “parrots” (or not, as the case may be).

Winking smile

6th May 2017–Geraldton to Kalbarri

Distance: 191 km

I set off this morning expecting to arrive at Kalbarri at about midday but it proved a much more interesting journey than I anticipated and I eventually reached the caravan park at 3.30pm.

Came across a partly restored convict settlement at Lynton – the Port Gregory Convict Hiring Station.

There was a connection to the Anna on whom “The King and I” was based (click on the photo for a bigger version).

Took a side trip to visit Port Gregory; a white beach protected by a reef and what appeared to be good fishing if a seven year old who kept reeling in whiting was anything to go by.

Nearby was Pink Lake and yes, it was pink – some algae that thrives in salt water lakes apparently (like Lake Tyrell).

As I neared Kalbarri there were numerous lookouts on top of the cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. I can’t remember which photo was taken from which lookout.

Finally in the caravan park noticed these two cars next to each other.

5th May 2017–Explore Geraldton

Distance: 28 km
Fuel: 20 L

After having a shower decided to hand wash my dirty clothes in the park’s laundry. Once that was on the line, had breakfast and was ready to explore by 8am.

First stop the HMAS Sydney II Memorial. The ship was sunk in 1941 with the loss of all hands, the wreck was only discovered in 2008 (I think that is right).

Visited the Old Gaol but it didn’t open until a very tardy 10am.

Found the Visitors’ Centre. It was housed in what was the original Railway Station. Rather like Newcastle (on Hunter) the railway cut the town off from the sea front but now the railway has gone and the seafront is very pleasant to walk along. Wonderful for kids I have never seen such exotic playgrounds as those scattered along the esplanade.

Talking of kid’s playgrounds but of a different era… Beside the Visitors’ Centre was an object I haven’t seen since I was a kid – actually it took me a little while to realise what it was.

Recognise it? It’s one of those roundabouts suspended from a central pivot (here rendered safe and useless by the metal pillars under the seats). I don’t think I have ever seen one in that hexagonal shape before, the ones I remember were circular and swung in eccentric circles toward and away from the central pillar depending on the arrangement of riders. They were great.

Anyway back to Geraldton… from the Visitors’ Centre I obtained a map and a self guided trail brochure. I combined the Esplanade and Marine Drive Trails for an interesting walk along the waterfront and the town.

Finally a walk further into town to look at the St Francis Xavier’s Cathedral.

The weather was very variable all day sometimes cloudy sometimes sunny but at least always warm at about 29’C. Quite a good day seemed to get a lot done. Also looked at Fisherman’s Wharf later in the afternoon but frankly, unless you have a fetish for expensive seafood, it wasn’t that exciting.

Anyway tomorrow onward and northward.

4th May 2017–Wongan Hills to Geraldton

Distance: 476 km
Fuel: 42 L

Left Wongan Hills at stupid o’clock in the morning after a good nights sleep and breakfast. I had left the trailer connected to the car last night so there wasn’t much to do this morning except shower, eat and go.

Headed for Cervantes to visit The Pinnacles Desert NP. On the way came across this abandoned house by the main road.

Well, I liked it anyway.

The Pinnacles, they cost $6 for this poor old pensioner to view them but worth it. I took the 1.5km walking track rather than drive round them.

BTW one big mistake. Driving to Cervantes the road ad surrounding scrub was lined with Bansias in flower – looked terrific. Thought how I must photograph some of them at the National Park. Ha! they petered out before the park and I didn’t see any more. So annoyed with myself.

Finally a glimpse of the Indian Ocean. Finally have crossed the continent.

Following that visit headed north with the intention of staying at Jurien Bay but on arrival there it was still earlly afternoon so decided to push on to Geraldton. Not a bad drive some of it along the ocean front.

Checked in at the caravan park, unhitched the trailer then went for a quick drive. Near the caravan park is the tallest metal lighthouse in the country. The local power company has tastefully decorated it with power poles and some of their finest cables.

That’s better.

Visited the local Target store and bought a Target toaster for $10. Toast in the morning!

3rd May 2017–Wave Rock to Wongan Hills

Distance: 373 km
Fuel: 45 L
Made a lot of stops today but either nothing too exciting to photograph or I just plain forgot.
I had to visit this town…

There was something called Bruce’s Rock signposted but I couldn’t find it, all I managed was a picnic site with an historic well. Actually it wasn’t a bad little town.

There was a stop at Cunderdin for supplies, The town had an Ettamogah Pub.

…but frankly I thought the library was a better building.

As was the old railway station.

I had never heard of the 1968 Meckering Earthquake but it destroyed a house.

An annoying thing about councils is their inconsistent signage I started following a series of signs stating “Earthquake Site” – these signs petered out with no sign of an earthquake, It was only while retracing my steps that I noticed a sign which said “Farm House Ruins” which I hope was the Earthquake site.
Arrived at Wongan Hills Caravan Park and booked in. Why Wongan Hills? It was 3pm (ish) I was tired of driving and this was the nearest park. The very friendly fella told me to just pick a site because there was plenty of room.

There were about four caravans in the drive through sites but no-one at all on the reverse in concrete slabs so I picked one of those near the shower block.