7th May 2017–Foreign Parts

Distance: 235.3 km
Fuel: 39 L

Today I left Australia and visited the Principality of Hutt River Province. Prince Leonard served me and sold me postcards and a stubbie holder in the Government building. Prince Graeme provided me with a visa for $4 at the Post Office. It was an interesting visit.

Prince Leonard was very nice, here he is putting my purchases in a bag for me.

Natures Window

I was ready to look at a local landmark called Natures Window Alas the road is closed for maintenance until July (they are gold plating it).

Here is a picture of what I would have seen had it been open.

More Scenery

Drove up to Red Bluff to admire the views and see the Zuytdorp Memorial – a Dutch ship wrecked here in about 1712. There were survivors but what became of them is not known.

Finally… Bird Watching

It’s well known that I am an avid bird watcher so today I visited Rainbow Jungle to see what we bird watchers call “parrots” (or not, as the case may be).

Winking smile

6th May 2017–Geraldton to Kalbarri

Distance: 191 km

I set off this morning expecting to arrive at Kalbarri at about midday but it proved a much more interesting journey than I anticipated and I eventually reached the caravan park at 3.30pm.

Came across a partly restored convict settlement at Lynton – the Port Gregory Convict Hiring Station.

There was a connection to the Anna on whom “The King and I” was based (click on the photo for a bigger version).

Took a side trip to visit Port Gregory; a white beach protected by a reef and what appeared to be good fishing if a seven year old who kept reeling in whiting was anything to go by.

Nearby was Pink Lake and yes, it was pink – some algae that thrives in salt water lakes apparently (like Lake Tyrell).

As I neared Kalbarri there were numerous lookouts on top of the cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. I can’t remember which photo was taken from which lookout.

Finally in the caravan park noticed these two cars next to each other.

5th May 2017–Explore Geraldton

Distance: 28 km
Fuel: 20 L

After having a shower decided to hand wash my dirty clothes in the park’s laundry. Once that was on the line, had breakfast and was ready to explore by 8am.

First stop the HMAS Sydney II Memorial. The ship was sunk in 1941 with the loss of all hands, the wreck was only discovered in 2008 (I think that is right).

Visited the Old Gaol but it didn’t open until a very tardy 10am.

Found the Visitors’ Centre. It was housed in what was the original Railway Station. Rather like Newcastle (on Hunter) the railway cut the town off from the sea front but now the railway has gone and the seafront is very pleasant to walk along. Wonderful for kids I have never seen such exotic playgrounds as those scattered along the esplanade.

Talking of kid’s playgrounds but of a different era… Beside the Visitors’ Centre was an object I haven’t seen since I was a kid – actually it took me a little while to realise what it was.

Recognise it? It’s one of those roundabouts suspended from a central pivot (here rendered safe and useless by the metal pillars under the seats). I don’t think I have ever seen one in that hexagonal shape before, the ones I remember were circular and swung in eccentric circles toward and away from the central pillar depending on the arrangement of riders. They were great.

Anyway back to Geraldton… from the Visitors’ Centre I obtained a map and a self guided trail brochure. I combined the Esplanade and Marine Drive Trails for an interesting walk along the waterfront and the town.

Finally a walk further into town to look at the St Francis Xavier’s Cathedral.

The weather was very variable all day sometimes cloudy sometimes sunny but at least always warm at about 29’C. Quite a good day seemed to get a lot done. Also looked at Fisherman’s Wharf later in the afternoon but frankly, unless you have a fetish for expensive seafood, it wasn’t that exciting.

Anyway tomorrow onward and northward.

4th May 2017–Wongan Hills to Geraldton

Distance: 476 km
Fuel: 42 L

Left Wongan Hills at stupid o’clock in the morning after a good nights sleep and breakfast. I had left the trailer connected to the car last night so there wasn’t much to do this morning except shower, eat and go.

Headed for Cervantes to visit The Pinnacles Desert NP. On the way came across this abandoned house by the main road.

Well, I liked it anyway.

The Pinnacles, they cost $6 for this poor old pensioner to view them but worth it. I took the 1.5km walking track rather than drive round them.

BTW one big mistake. Driving to Cervantes the road ad surrounding scrub was lined with Bansias in flower – looked terrific. Thought how I must photograph some of them at the National Park. Ha! they petered out before the park and I didn’t see any more. So annoyed with myself.

Finally a glimpse of the Indian Ocean. Finally have crossed the continent.

Following that visit headed north with the intention of staying at Jurien Bay but on arrival there it was still earlly afternoon so decided to push on to Geraldton. Not a bad drive some of it along the ocean front.

Checked in at the caravan park, unhitched the trailer then went for a quick drive. Near the caravan park is the tallest metal lighthouse in the country. The local power company has tastefully decorated it with power poles and some of their finest cables.

That’s better.

Visited the local Target store and bought a Target toaster for $10. Toast in the morning!

3rd May 2017–Wave Rock to Wongan Hills

Distance: 373 km
Fuel: 45 L
Made a lot of stops today but either nothing too exciting to photograph or I just plain forgot.
I had to visit this town…

There was something called Bruce’s Rock signposted but I couldn’t find it, all I managed was a picnic site with an historic well. Actually it wasn’t a bad little town.

There was a stop at Cunderdin for supplies, The town had an Ettamogah Pub.

…but frankly I thought the library was a better building.

As was the old railway station.

I had never heard of the 1968 Meckering Earthquake but it destroyed a house.

An annoying thing about councils is their inconsistent signage I started following a series of signs stating “Earthquake Site” – these signs petered out with no sign of an earthquake, It was only while retracing my steps that I noticed a sign which said “Farm House Ruins” which I hope was the Earthquake site.
Arrived at Wongan Hills Caravan Park and booked in. Why Wongan Hills? It was 3pm (ish) I was tired of driving and this was the nearest park. The very friendly fella told me to just pick a site because there was plenty of room.

There were about four caravans in the drive through sites but no-one at all on the reverse in concrete slabs so I picked one of those near the shower block.

2nd May 2017–Kalgoorlie to Hyden

Distance: 509 km
Fuel: 38 ltr

Got to say that stopping for milk in Coolgardie made me wish I had stayed there instead of Kalgoorlie, looked an interesting town. Anyway…

Another day another pit, this time at Coolgardie.

Coolgardie had some wonderful buildings – a reminder of better days.

On the way came across part of the Rabbit Proof Fence.

Finally arrived at Wave Rock.

Lots of Chinese enjoying the rock.

Walked 1.4km to Hippo Yawn

Finally climbed the rock itself which gave terrific views of the area which glowed in the setting sun.

The rock is also the catchment for the town’s water supply.

Considering I was in two minds about coming here I am glad that I did.

BTW: Have travelled about 4700km so far on this trip.

1st May 2017–A Day in Kalgoorlie

Awoke to a grey overcast sky which was a surprise as it was not cold overnight at all and no dew on the cars/caravans this morning however by 10am the clouds had largely gone.
First job was a little shopping to buy necessities such as soap and the all important Telstra SIM card.
Then it was time to visit the town’s reason to exist, the Super Pit.

It was a massive hole the machinery looked so tiny yet it too was on a gigantic scale.

I wanted to look at some of the nearby mining towns that had gone though boom and bust, they proved to be a bit of a disappointment. The area is littered with working mines but these old places have completely disappeared. At Broad Arrow all that remains is a cast iron water tank.

So it was back to Kalgoorlie to take in the sights.

From the town reservoir lookout there were signs of mining in all directons.

The town is actually two towns Boulder has its own CBD.

There is something for everybody.

30th April–Caiguna to Kalgoorlie

Distance: 562 km
Fuel: 56 Ltr

Long way to go today so started pretty early.

First up was 146 km of the longest straight bit of road in Australia. It certainly was straight but it was not flat no steep hills but undulating.

Astute observers will notice that the wombat has been replaced by a large chicken.

Virtually at the end of the long straight road I stopped at Balladonia Roadhouse for ice and a coffee to fortify me for the task of turning the steering wheel. The coffee wasn’t bad at all, just don’t drink the water.

The drive to Kalgoorlie was uneventful and relatively uninteresting there were no particular sights or points of interest. the trees got more dense as I got further from the Nullarbor so it wasn’t unpleasant countryside. I listened to the new Harper Lee audio book which passed the time nicely.

Am wondering about the Esky – Ice costs at least $4 a day (a day and a half max) a lot more in remote places but all it carries is milk, sliced cheese and marg. I think it would be cheaper to buy fresh and throw it away than keep buying ice. On the downside – no cold beer. I notice most people seem to have a portable fringe in the back of the ute.

29th April–Nullarbor to Caiguna Roadhouse

Distance: 555 km
Fuel: 52 ltr
As usual after a shower packed up and took off west. After about 60km turned off for the first lookout over the Great Australian Bight. Spectacular scenery, towering cliffs.

More kilometres, more cliffs.

Crossed the WA border and went through the usual Quarantine check and time change. The latter was just before lunch time so lunch kept getting further away, I was getting hungry.
Topped up with petrol at a roadhouse for $1.61/ltr, good job I did because at the Cocklebiddy Roadhouse where I had originally intended to stop it was $1.74. Not impressed with that and the fact that with the clocks going back meant it was only 1pm decided to push on another 70km to Caiguna. A good move fuel was 2c cheaper.

Booked in and checked the map – previously I had intended to stay at Norseman for the night before moving on to Kalgoorlie but with the extra 70kms under my belt decided that tomorrow will go straight to Kalgoorlie.
Still no phone reception so used a Telstra pay phone to ring the caravan park to book for two nights (it was a 1800 number)
Still plenty of daylight left so drove to the Caiguna Blowhole about 5km down the road. Not an exciting sight but interesting.

There was a definite wind coming out of the ground.

Had a meal at the roadhouse but on the way back to my caravan in the dark had a fall. Silly really normally carry my phone and use it as a torch but because it is useless at the moment left it in the car, Dumbo!

28th April–Ceduna to Nullarbor Roadhouse

Distance: 324 km
Fuel: 32 ltr
I am such a dope. I had intended to buy a Telstra SIM card for the spare phone I packed. When did I remember? When I was parked at the Nullarbor Roadhouse looking at the Telstra only phone tower! Anyway to continue…
From Ceduna the first stop was a quick sortie into Penong to see the windmills.

Then a fairly long stint with nothing much to do other than occasionally turn the steering wheel to accommodate the rare bend in the road while listening to the audio book of “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” read by Stephen Fry.
Nullarbor is not an Aboriginal word as I had assumed but from the Latin Nullus Arbor meaning No Trees (and there aren’t any)
About 15km before the Nullarbor Roadhouse is the turn off to “The Head of the Bight”. 14km of sealed road to a visitor’s centre, boardwalk and lookout. It is on Aboriginal Land and costs $5 (more for the less elderly).

Well worth the money, during the season whales can be seen but even without them it is spectacular scenery. The only thing south is Antarctica.

Finally the Nullarbor Roadhouse… What can I say? Diesel is $175/ltr, they generate their own electricity, desalinate their own bore water and charge $30 for a powered site plus $1 for a shower. I had a Nulla Burger for my evening meal and it was very good perfectly complimented by an $8 stubbie of Carlton Draught.
The original Roadhouse is still there (remember when there were only two sorts of petrol? Standard and Super).

But the new one also has a motel, caravan park and even a golf fairway.

Now this is a road sign you don’t see every day.

Haven’t seen any of the camels yet but I would imagine hitting a camel at 110kph would do a lot of damage to both of you.