4th May 2017–Wongan Hills to Geraldton

Distance: 476 km
Fuel: 42 L

Left Wongan Hills at stupid o’clock in the morning after a good nights sleep and breakfast. I had left the trailer connected to the car last night so there wasn’t much to do this morning except shower, eat and go.

Headed for Cervantes to visit The Pinnacles Desert NP. On the way came across this abandoned house by the main road.

Well, I liked it anyway.

The Pinnacles, they cost $6 for this poor old pensioner to view them but worth it. I took the 1.5km walking track rather than drive round them.

BTW one big mistake. Driving to Cervantes the road ad surrounding scrub was lined with Bansias in flower – looked terrific. Thought how I must photograph some of them at the National Park. Ha! they petered out before the park and I didn’t see any more. So annoyed with myself.

Finally a glimpse of the Indian Ocean. Finally have crossed the continent.

Following that visit headed north with the intention of staying at Jurien Bay but on arrival there it was still earlly afternoon so decided to push on to Geraldton. Not a bad drive some of it along the ocean front.

Checked in at the caravan park, unhitched the trailer then went for a quick drive. Near the caravan park is the tallest metal lighthouse in the country. The local power company has tastefully decorated it with power poles and some of their finest cables.

That’s better.

Visited the local Target store and bought a Target toaster for $10. Toast in the morning!

3rd May 2017–Wave Rock to Wongan Hills

Distance: 373 km
Fuel: 45 L
Made a lot of stops today but either nothing too exciting to photograph or I just plain forgot.
I had to visit this town…

There was something called Bruce’s Rock signposted but I couldn’t find it, all I managed was a picnic site with an historic well. Actually it wasn’t a bad little town.

There was a stop at Cunderdin for supplies, The town had an Ettamogah Pub.

…but frankly I thought the library was a better building.

As was the old railway station.

I had never heard of the 1968 Meckering Earthquake but it destroyed a house.

An annoying thing about councils is their inconsistent signage I started following a series of signs stating “Earthquake Site” – these signs petered out with no sign of an earthquake, It was only while retracing my steps that I noticed a sign which said “Farm House Ruins” which I hope was the Earthquake site.
Arrived at Wongan Hills Caravan Park and booked in. Why Wongan Hills? It was 3pm (ish) I was tired of driving and this was the nearest park. The very friendly fella told me to just pick a site because there was plenty of room.

There were about four caravans in the drive through sites but no-one at all on the reverse in concrete slabs so I picked one of those near the shower block.

2nd May 2017–Kalgoorlie to Hyden

Distance: 509 km
Fuel: 38 ltr

Got to say that stopping for milk in Coolgardie made me wish I had stayed there instead of Kalgoorlie, looked an interesting town. Anyway…

Another day another pit, this time at Coolgardie.

Coolgardie had some wonderful buildings – a reminder of better days.

On the way came across part of the Rabbit Proof Fence.

Finally arrived at Wave Rock.

Lots of Chinese enjoying the rock.

Walked 1.4km to Hippo Yawn

Finally climbed the rock itself which gave terrific views of the area which glowed in the setting sun.

The rock is also the catchment for the town’s water supply.

Considering I was in two minds about coming here I am glad that I did.

BTW: Have travelled about 4700km so far on this trip.

1st May 2017–A Day in Kalgoorlie

Awoke to a grey overcast sky which was a surprise as it was not cold overnight at all and no dew on the cars/caravans this morning however by 10am the clouds had largely gone.
First job was a little shopping to buy necessities such as soap and the all important Telstra SIM card.
Then it was time to visit the town’s reason to exist, the Super Pit.

It was a massive hole the machinery looked so tiny yet it too was on a gigantic scale.

I wanted to look at some of the nearby mining towns that had gone though boom and bust, they proved to be a bit of a disappointment. The area is littered with working mines but these old places have completely disappeared. At Broad Arrow all that remains is a cast iron water tank.

So it was back to Kalgoorlie to take in the sights.

From the town reservoir lookout there were signs of mining in all directons.

The town is actually two towns Boulder has its own CBD.

There is something for everybody.

30th April–Caiguna to Kalgoorlie

Distance: 562 km
Fuel: 56 Ltr

Long way to go today so started pretty early.

First up was 146 km of the longest straight bit of road in Australia. It certainly was straight but it was not flat no steep hills but undulating.

Astute observers will notice that the wombat has been replaced by a large chicken.

Virtually at the end of the long straight road I stopped at Balladonia Roadhouse for ice and a coffee to fortify me for the task of turning the steering wheel. The coffee wasn’t bad at all, just don’t drink the water.

The drive to Kalgoorlie was uneventful and relatively uninteresting there were no particular sights or points of interest. the trees got more dense as I got further from the Nullarbor so it wasn’t unpleasant countryside. I listened to the new Harper Lee audio book which passed the time nicely.

Am wondering about the Esky – Ice costs at least $4 a day (a day and a half max) a lot more in remote places but all it carries is milk, sliced cheese and marg. I think it would be cheaper to buy fresh and throw it away than keep buying ice. On the downside – no cold beer. I notice most people seem to have a portable fringe in the back of the ute.

29th April–Nullarbor to Caiguna Roadhouse

Distance: 555 km
Fuel: 52 ltr
As usual after a shower packed up and took off west. After about 60km turned off for the first lookout over the Great Australian Bight. Spectacular scenery, towering cliffs.

More kilometres, more cliffs.

Crossed the WA border and went through the usual Quarantine check and time change. The latter was just before lunch time so lunch kept getting further away, I was getting hungry.
Topped up with petrol at a roadhouse for $1.61/ltr, good job I did because at the Cocklebiddy Roadhouse where I had originally intended to stop it was $1.74. Not impressed with that and the fact that with the clocks going back meant it was only 1pm decided to push on another 70km to Caiguna. A good move fuel was 2c cheaper.

Booked in and checked the map – previously I had intended to stay at Norseman for the night before moving on to Kalgoorlie but with the extra 70kms under my belt decided that tomorrow will go straight to Kalgoorlie.
Still no phone reception so used a Telstra pay phone to ring the caravan park to book for two nights (it was a 1800 number)
Still plenty of daylight left so drove to the Caiguna Blowhole about 5km down the road. Not an exciting sight but interesting.

There was a definite wind coming out of the ground.

Had a meal at the roadhouse but on the way back to my caravan in the dark had a fall. Silly really normally carry my phone and use it as a torch but because it is useless at the moment left it in the car, Dumbo!

28th April–Ceduna to Nullarbor Roadhouse

Distance: 324 km
Fuel: 32 ltr
I am such a dope. I had intended to buy a Telstra SIM card for the spare phone I packed. When did I remember? When I was parked at the Nullarbor Roadhouse looking at the Telstra only phone tower! Anyway to continue…
From Ceduna the first stop was a quick sortie into Penong to see the windmills.

Then a fairly long stint with nothing much to do other than occasionally turn the steering wheel to accommodate the rare bend in the road while listening to the audio book of “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” read by Stephen Fry.
Nullarbor is not an Aboriginal word as I had assumed but from the Latin Nullus Arbor meaning No Trees (and there aren’t any)
About 15km before the Nullarbor Roadhouse is the turn off to “The Head of the Bight”. 14km of sealed road to a visitor’s centre, boardwalk and lookout. It is on Aboriginal Land and costs $5 (more for the less elderly).

Well worth the money, during the season whales can be seen but even without them it is spectacular scenery. The only thing south is Antarctica.

Finally the Nullarbor Roadhouse… What can I say? Diesel is $175/ltr, they generate their own electricity, desalinate their own bore water and charge $30 for a powered site plus $1 for a shower. I had a Nulla Burger for my evening meal and it was very good perfectly complimented by an $8 stubbie of Carlton Draught.
The original Roadhouse is still there (remember when there were only two sorts of petrol? Standard and Super).

But the new one also has a motel, caravan park and even a golf fairway.

Now this is a road sign you don’t see every day.

Haven’t seen any of the camels yet but I would imagine hitting a camel at 110kph would do a lot of damage to both of you.

27th April 2017–Port Lincoln to Ceduna

Distance: 498 km
Fuel: 41 ltr
So excited to be leaving Port Lincoln – cold and miserable place as far as I am concerned. Up early to get milk and ice from the local Coles, like the ACT they don’t have plastic bags.
Stopped a few times on the way to look at landmarks and cairns – a pet peeve – this was one of them.

Now how on earth does that qualify as a site of interest with road signage, parking, a cairn and a plaque? Talk about more having money than sense.
One place I did find interesting was Murphy’s Haystacks. I think the rock formations are created in a similar way to The Devils Marbles in NT though not as spectacular.

Arrived Ceduna early afternoon and checked into the caravan park right in the town centre.

Walked around the shops and waterfront before taking a 35km drive along a dirt road to the OTC Earth Station.

The road was well graded so it was pretty easy but the dish no longer belongs to OTC and has a much more glamorous use.

Perhaps it has been replaced by these dishes much nearer town.

I don’t know if that is so this site was totally unsign posted except for a warning that there was 24 hour surveillance and that trespassers would be prosecuted.

During the early evening strolled to the pub next to the caravan park for a beer and food. Learned all about the difference between South Australian descriptions of glass sizes and the rest of the civilised world.

The weather is much improved quite warm(ish), only needed my light jacket this evening.
I think I have solved the fuel consumption problem. I suspect it was a combination of windy, inclement weather, hilly countryside and the speed limit. Today the drive was virtually flat, windless and I set the cruise control on 100kph for the whole journey. Fuel consumption was nearly as good as without the trailer (Ok, No it wasn’t but it wasn’t that bad either).

26th April 2017 Port Lincoln and About

Cold Night

The night was windy and miserable; the vent on the camper roof kept banging and waking me up. It rained intermittently so I couldn’t leave the glass panels open. Was warm enough but it was not a good night.

A Day Out

Up early to get the laundry washed, dried and packed before 9am. Pretty pleased ($3 for washing machine, $3 for dryer).

After some breakfast I drove into town to see the sights. First stop Makybe Diva, it’s a horse that won the Melbourne Cup and it definitely looked like a horse to me.

Nearby was the Mosaic Couch another attraction of the town.

Not mentioned in the brochure was a statue of Flinders and his Cat.

Back in the car to visit the Old Mill which you can climb for spectacular views of the town,

Well, views anyway.

The Axel Steinross Maritime Museum was next, it was closed but there was an interesting variable pitch propeller and a couple of boats outside.

Onward and upward to Winterhill Lookout for more views.

A 40km drive to Coffin Bay, alas not some macabre beauty spot but a small fishing port named after an Isaac Coffin.

All the time it was bitterly cold. At Coffin Bay I bought coffee and a sausage roll which went down well.

Back to Lincoln National Park to see a monument to Flinders. The bastards wanted $9 to go in so I gave it a miss – I had already seen Flinders and his Cat which was probably enough Flinders for one day. But when too much Flinders is never enough there is always a cairn to mark where he found some water for his ships.

Went to a couple of other interesting spots at the Marina and Billy Lights Wharf but by then felt I had exhausted Port Lincoln’s attractions so returned to the caravan park to watch the goings on there. Believe it or not the sun came out for a few moments.

While it was a good day out, the weather doesn’t suit me at all, far too cold.

On reflection perhaps I should have made this two trips the southern part in summer the northern part a little later in May. Having said that tomorrow’s forecast for Ceduna where I am heading next is better and it has only been two wet, cold and or windy days. I just hate cold weather so much.

In New Territory

25th April 2017 Port Augusta to Port Lincoln

Distance: 379km
Fuel: 45Ltr

Signs of the Time

I had to visit Iron Knob. In the 15 minutes of a geography lesson at school when I was taught all about Australia Iron Knob was one of the few places that got a mention so I had to see it.

After a brief look round (it is not an exciting town) it was on to Kimba.

Kimba is not that exciting either but it does have a pie shop and a Big Galah. I enjoyed a quite reasonable steak and kidney pie (no sauce, thanks) and stretched my legs before moving on. I had intended to visit a signposted lookout but I was 20kms down the road before I remembered; I hope it was a disappointment.

I was thinking of stay at Tumby Bay for the night but after a reasonable morning of sunshine with a few clouds the weather turned nasty. Tumby Bay was wet and miserable so it was another 30 minutes of driving to Port Lincoln where I booked into the caravan park for a couple of nights.

My fuel consumption it has rocketed, used over half a tank to travel 380km – without the trailer a tank lasts over 700km, I expected to use more fuel but not quite this much. Will have to see how it goes tomorrow without the caravan and might have a look underneath to see if I have sprung a leak.